A prospect emails: "How much for 100 shirts?" Three days later, they get a quote with blank costs, setup fees, per-unit decoration charges, and rush penalties. Nothing adds up the way they thought it would.
The promo industry loves mystery pricing. We don't. Let's walk through what a real 100-shirt order actually costs—no hidden line items, just the logic.
The Blank Cost: Your Starting Line
Blank apparel—the undecorated t-shirt you start with—is the foundation. A basic lightweight cotton shirt costs one price per unit; a premium heavyweight version costs more. Order 100, and you pay per-unit price × 100.
Here's the key: order 50 shirts, and per-unit blanks might be $4.50 each. Order 100, and that same shirt might drop to $4.00 each because the apparel supplier's own unit economics improve at volume. This is real economies of scale, baked into the material itself.
Tip: this is where switching shirt brands (or fit cuts) can swing your total by 15–20%. A heavier performance crew or specialty fabric always costs more than a basic 5-oz jersey.
Decoration Setup: The One-Time Cost You Can't Skip
Printing a design onto 100 shirts isn't free to set up. Whether it's screen-print, embroidery, or digital direct-to-garment (DTG), the shop has to:
- Prepare your artwork (separate colors, color-separate screens, digitize for embroidery, or prep the DTG file).
- Run test prints to confirm color and placement.
- Set up the machine (load screens, thread, calibrate, etc.).
That setup cost is a flat fee—say $50–150 depending on method and complexity—and it stays the same whether you order 50 or 500 shirts. So for 100 shirts, it gets amortized. For 500, it costs way less per shirt. For 25, it stings.
Per-Unit Decoration: The Bulk of It
Once setup is done, each shirt gets decorated. Screen printing might be $1.50 per shirt, embroidery $2.00–4.00 depending on stitch count, DTG $2.50–3.50. This is where volume discounts kick in hardest.
Order 100 screenprints at $1.50 each = $150 decoration labor. Order 250 at $1.20 each = $300 (still less per-shirt). The unit price goes down because the shop's press is running continuously, no setup between shirts.
Real example: 100 shirts with a simple 1-color chest print might run $200 setup + (100 × $1.50) = $350 total decoration. That's $3.50 per shirt for decoration alone.
Putting It Together (And Quantity Tiers)
Let's build a real scenario: 100 basic cotton Daily Driver Tees, single-color screenprint on the front.
- Blanks: 100 × $4.00 = $400
- Decoration setup: $75 (simple 1-color)
- Per-shirt decoration: 100 × $1.50 = $150
- Subtotal: $625
- Cost per shirt: $6.25
Now, what if you order 250 instead? Blanks might drop to $3.60 each, decoration per-unit to $1.20 (the shop is faster now). Setup stays $75:
- Blanks: 250 × $3.60 = $900
- Decoration setup: $75
- Per-shirt decoration: 250 × $1.20 = $300
- Subtotal: $1,275
- Cost per shirt: $5.10
That's 18% cheaper per unit by going 2.5× bigger. This is why promo partners always ask "and what about 250?"
Factors That Change the Math
A few things that'll swing your total:
- Blank choice: Performance fabric, heavier weight, or specialty cut can add $0.50–2.00 per unit.
- Decoration complexity: Multi-color prints cost more per unit than single-color. Embroidery is slower than screen-print (and costs more). Full-back design costs more than chest-only.
- Rush orders: Need it in 5 days instead of 10? Many shops tack 15–25% onto decoration labor (and sometimes blanks, if they're expedited from the supplier).
- Ink or thread brand: Premium inks or specialized threads (glow-in-dark, metallic) add per-unit costs.
None of these are hidden. A good supplier lists them all up-front on the quote.
The Transparency Move
The industry standard is to hide all this behind a single "price per unit" and let you call to negotiate. We break it down because the math is simple once you see it.
When you're evaluating orders, ask: what's the blank cost, what's the setup, and what's the per-unit decoration? Then you can compare apples to apples. A shop charging $8/shirt for decoration isn't necessarily more expensive than $7/shirt if they're offering faster turnaround, better quality, or lower setup fees.
The real win: once you understand the components, you can make smarter decisions. Rush isn't necessary? Drop it. Go with a simpler blank? Save money on blanks. Scale to 250 instead of 100? Watch the per-unit cost plummet.
FAQ
Why does setup cost the same for 100 shirts and 500 shirts?
Setup is a one-time machine preparation cost. Whether you print 100 or 500 after that, the press is already loaded and calibrated. The $75 setup gets spread across more shirts, so the per-unit impact shrinks with volume.
Can I skip a decoration method to save money?
You can choose a simpler method (1-color instead of 4-color, small chest print instead of full-back), but you can't skip decoration entirely without changing the order. That said, some basics—like a Structured Six-Panel hat instead of a shirt—sidestep decoration entirely and let you pocket the savings.
What's the magic number where bulk discounts really kick in?
Around 250 units is where most printers start offering noticeable per-unit breaks. Below 100, you're paying a premium because setup cost is high relative to your volume. Above 500, you hit supply-chain volume discounts from apparel distributors too.
Are there hidden fees I should watch for?
Transparent suppliers list setup, per-unit decoration, blank cost, and any rushing/freight charges separately. If a quote is a single line item with no breakdown, ask for one. You deserve to see where your money is going.